Before I write anything, I want to make sure that anyone reading this blog entry understands that I mean no disrespect at all by showing photos of some tombstones and things at Babaoshan National Revolutionary Cemetery! I post them to show cultural differences and hope that it brings better understanding to some folks who read this blog. I also want to stress that I kept my camera in my coat pocket and took photos only when I could make sure no one was watching me.
Having said that, let's start at the beginning. Wendy, an American colleague of mine, and I wanted to see what Tomb Sweeping Day was all about and the only way to do that would be to actually visit an important cemetery in Beijing. Babaoshan is just one subway stop away from the subway stop closest to my apt. So I met Wendy and off we went around 10:00 am. We met an American man on the subway who was also going to the cemetery with his Chinese wife and child and he kindly pointed us in the right direction once we came up out of the Babaoshan subway stop (however, we never saw him at the cemetery...but that's because it's a VERY big cemetery). We walked for about 15 minutes and came to the entrance. There were lots of street vendors selling flowers and fake money and things that are offered on this important day when Chinese people honor the dead. There were also lots of policemen around to help with any crowd issues. We were actually expecting a lot more people than we actually saw. Still.....there were LOTS of people!
We entered the Babaoshan Cemetery (where many soldiers from way back are buried and the ashes of the last Emporer of China, Pu yi, was once at this cemetery but in recent years has been moved to another location just outside of Beijing. There are also several important Westerners buried at Babaoshan but we didn't know this until we did some research online AFTER our visit. I will be going back to Babaoshan to try and locate some of these tombstones one day before I leave China.
So.....on this important day, folks bring food, incense, fake money, photos of luxuries such as cars, TVs, etc., alcohol, cigarettes, fruit, and many flowers to the tombstones of their loved ones. In days past the fake money and other photos, as well as the money, as burned at the tombstone site. However, it is now illegal to actually burn these things at the graves in large cemeteries (if everyone burned these things then there would be smoke everywhere!). It's still done, however, in rural areas. They also bring water and cloths and clean the tombstones. They also bring paint and repaint the Chinese characters on the tombstones. It was very humbling to see folks washing off the marble tombstones. Not only were Wendy and I the ONLY foreigners that we saw that day in the cemetery....but we also saw only 2 children amongst so many adults. Chinese folks believe that children shouldn't be brought to the cemeteries until they are much older (as my students told me). Chinese believe that by bringing all these things to the grave site....then the loved ones can have these things in their afterlife. I was amazed to see some fake U.S. money at one resting place. Perhaps that person had visited the U.S. on several occasions in their life.
Although I never saw anyone burning anything (other than some incense), the fire department was "at the ready." I was struck by the neat order in which everything was laid out in case of a fire emergency and since the firefighter in the front seat of this big firetruck was dozing....I quickly snapped a photo, only to walk around the firetruck and notice other firefighters inside the truck who were NOT asleep and stared at me curiously! ha We quickly moved on.
I felt remorse upon seeing this grave site to see only a small custard pie and an orange. My students later told me, however, that there are probably lots of soldiers buried at this cemetery that are unidentified so perhaps someone left these things in honor of an unidentified fallen soldier. I should also mention that the majority of folks buried have been cremated, which is very common in China. So it is their ashes, not their embalmed bodies (such is common in American cemeteries) that are buried here. I've made no secret with my own loved ones that I want to be cremated upon death and not have my body embalmed. There are many "funeral" stores in Beijing where ornate boxes are sold to house the ashes of loved ones. My close Chinese friends wouldn't go inside with me (believing it to be bad luck) so one day I went inside one all on my own and looked at some of the wooden boxes. They are absolutely beautiful, some being adorned with inlaid jade and other stones and ornately carved. The more beautiful ones can easily cost upwards of $500 U.S. My students told me that some folks DO buy the boxes for their ashes before they die.....but only if they are very old already. They were completely confused when I expressed a desire to buy one for myself. But we'll stop that kind of talk for now......
The apple is sitting on top of a paper depicting many things one want desire in their afterlife...including a shiny red sports car.
Beautiful!
The green bottle is rice liquor and there's also a box of tissues left here. I'm not sure of the significance of that offering. The multiple plates house many traditional Chinese pastries.
I know it looks likes bodies are actually buried here but my students tell me it's really just their ashes.
This grave site included a plate of chicken, an open beer and sticks of incense, among other items. A young Chinese man who noticed Wendy and I walking around stopped to talk with us in English. So nice. He told us that all the offerings would be removed by many workers at the end of the day! I can't even imagine what a huge job that would be!
A quick photo of my fellow adventurer, Wendy! :) Wendy is a very brave mother and wife. She moved here with her husband and 3 young children and she is adjusting very well to this brave new world! :)
My students tell me that the Chinese characters in the middle say "mother, father" and then their familhy name and to the right....their birth and death dates.....and to the left then names of their children who arranged the tombstone for their ashes. Again, very poignant for me.
It looks like I was right behind these folks taking a rest atop a grave site. But actually, I was very far away and zoomed in with my camera. I just thought they were a very interesting couple (most likely a father and a daughter, but I don't know) who were no doubt contemplating thoughts of their loved one.
My last photo of the Babaoshan National Revolutionary Cemetery!
Lots of folks!
So we left Babaoshan Cemetery and returned to the entrance where we began our adventure. We then walked down the street in search of a taxi to take us to Sam's Club (there is only one Sam's Club in Beijing and perhaps all of China), which I knew was very near to where we were. So we walked, and we walked, and we walked! :) It seemed like miles but was probably only about one mile! ha We made it to a busy intersections and decided to try to find a taxi to take us to Sam's Club. The first taxi driver, upon my showing him my Chinese Sam's Club card, had no idea where it was. So we got out and decided maybe we should just try to walk there. I called a foreign friend who told me which direction he thought we should walk. Good thing that I decided to give the taxi a second try. This taxi driver, when I showed him my Sam's Club card, knew where to take us but it turned out we were only 3 blocks from our destination! ha We could have SO walked there! ha But it's okay...the taxi ride was just $1.50 and we were at Sam's Club! We enjoyed buying many imported items, including some slices of delicious pizza! :) My No. 1 purchase was Land O'Lakes sharp cheddar cheese! ha ha
Wendy and I had a great day together by venturing out into a day among only Chinese citizens. We learned a lot and became more aware of the culture in which we are living. It's easy to live in Beijing as an ex-patriot (non-Chinese) and not experience true Chinese culture. I didn't move here, however, to live the life of an ex-pat who doesn't get to know the land and culture in which I live! I may only have about 5 months left in Beijing and China.....but I intend to make the most of my time until I return to America so you should definitely stay tuned! :) LL in C, T.